Chris Shama in Yangshuo

Yangshuo is the Home of Chinese sport climbing, the first routes were established by Tod Skinner on 1992. Since then Yangshuo has seen visits from Many top rock climbers including Chris Sharma, who’s last visit was surrounded in controversy. He completed a route with a chipped hold on it called American Gangster without the chipped hold and suggested if the route is climbed without it then it should be called French Gangster. This story has now become local legend and the route is always called French gangster now.

Chris Shama also bolted a route at Leipi shan which he was unable to finish because of bad weather, a year later a chinese climber named Wang-Qinghua completed the route claiming it was graded 9a. After he completed the route several other local climbers (including Abon and Zhangyong) climbed it and said it was more like 8c. So maybe the claim of 9a was more of a publicity stunt for Kailas? (the sponsor of Wang-Qinghua). Please post a comment if you have more information on this. Here is a forum post about it: